Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
